All the <a href="/blog/a-28-century-old-city">buts </a>combined with the strong flavour of history do make Rome feel like a quirky city from the past and for the past. However, to do justice to the capital of Italy, one must say that, at least, some Roman wonders are quite “butless” - originated in the past, be it distant or recent, they kept developing and adjusting rather than getting stuck in that past. One such wonder is Villa Borghese.Pope Paul V's nephew, Cardinal Scipione Borghese had a small problem: he loved partying but didn't want his parties to disturb his household. Clearly, a party house was needed - so, Borghese started toying with the idea of turning his vineyard into a villa. The more he thought about that idea, the more he liked it - “a large country house of Roman times, having an estate and consisting of farm and residential buildings arranged around a courtyard” would not only provide ample space for partying but also prove a perfect home for Scipione's art collection that was becoming too big and unwieldy for his original residence. So, Borghese asked the architect Flaminio Ponzio to undertake the task. The rest is…well, history.Fast-forward to the 20th century - in 1960 the gardens surrounding the “house with a courtyard” became an Olympic venue hosting most equestrian competitions of the program. Even before that various buildings, scattered through the gardens, had been turned into art museums exhibiting, among other masterpieces, sculptures by Bernini and paintings by Titian, Raphael and Caravaggio. Finally, in 2003 - so, already in the current century - a replica of Shakespeare's Globe Theatre was added to the long list of Villa's attractions…All in all, not bad for a private villa! Tempting as it might be to call it absolutely unique, doing so would be an exaggeration: Villa Krupp in Essen (Germany) proves that money in the 20th century could achieve almost as much as high status AND money - in the 17th. Yet, being less than unique doesn't turn Scipione Borghese's property into less of a wonder. &nbsp;&nbsp;

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A Pope's Nephew

Both Venice, founded in 421 AD, and Milan that came to existence about two centuries later, have been around for quite a while but...both are mere teenagers in comparison with Rome rumoured to have been founded by Remus and Romulus, the sons of the most famous she-wolf in the human history, in 753 BC! One would think that a 28-centuries-old city has a lot to offer, and it does...but in a rather quirky way.Arguably, the most renowned structures in Rome are the Colosseum and the Forum. The former was built for the people by Emperor Titus (most beloved by the people and nicknamed "The People's Emperor"). For several centuries the Colosseum hosted the most cruel AND the most spectacular shows on Earth, including not only gladiators fights but also naval battles. After that it served as a quarry for about a millennium-and-a-half. The Forum, roughly translated as "a place for trading and socializing", had for many centuries been touted as "the most celebrated meeting place in the world in all history". The decline of the Roman Empire ended the celebration. Even nowadays both structures are very centrally located, popular tourist attractions but... both are essentially ruins!Another magnet for tourists is the Trevi Fountain. Once an important junction (hence its name, Trevi (a) = three roads), today it's quite literally a means to its own end because that's where tourists throw coins in order to return to Rome. Some of those tourists also seem to believe that their contribution entitles them to a small bonus, such as nude swimming in that very fountain.Finally, there is St. Peter's Basilica, the Pope's own cathedral, so-to-say, and therefore, arguably, the most important church on Earth. However, there is a "but" in this case, too: while located in the same city, the Basilica is in another country, as being the smallest country in the world doesn't make Vatican any less sovereign!As a result of all those buts, one might feel that visiting Rome is like taking a quirky holiday from normal life - or, in other words, like becoming a character in the famous 1953 movie "Roman Holiday".

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A 28-Century-Old City

<a href="/blog/kings-palace">Two wonders on the same square</a> is already an overkill. Three? That would be beyond description - so, it is fortunate that the famous La Scala opera house is located not on the Cathedral Square but rather 350 meters away from it, Victor Emmanuel galleria connecting the two. The connection is very much by design as it symbolizes the unity between the religious/spiritual soul of the city and the cultural/secular one.​There are not so many renowned opera houses in the world. Some (like Sydney's "ship with billowing sails") are celebrated for their unique architectural design, others - for their opulence of the interior or even scale of operations (the Metropolitan Opera in New-York has for decades presented 27 operas each year!). La Scala is in the league of its own when it comes to the reputation and quality of its performers because the who-is-who of the opera world has forever regarded being invited to sing there as the ultimate honour and recognition of their professional excellence. It's not by chance that one of the most sought after souvenirs one can buy in the La Scala shop is...a poster featuring that of another undisputed opera star. I said "poster" because that's what they formally are but "painting" might be a better word. On a personal note, one such refined and deeply psychological portrait of young Maria Callas has for decades been my most prized art-related possession.​All the above might explain why off-season tours in the building remain one of the hottest tickets in Milan. Rather inexpensive, they offer the visitors an opportunity to soak in the elusive magic of the place - to lounge in a sumptuous armchair and feast their eyes on the heavy curtain adorned with jewels, the ornate ceiling, the shining chandelier, and even more shining loges heavily decorated with gold... After a while, one realizes that the Guardian Angel of Arts keeps his vigil over the unique "Staircase" even in the off-season.

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La Scala

As if the Gothic Wonder wasn't enough to turn the Cathedral Square in <a href="/blog/milano-duomo">Milan</a> into one of the most remarkable places on Earth, a galleria was built right next to the cathedral in the third quarter of the 19th century. Named after Victor Emmanuel II (the first king of the unified Italy), and styled after several popular shopping arcades scattered throughout Europe, the galleria was to become yet another place of commerce - and one trying to benefit from the proximity to a major tourist attraction. While having indeed become a high-end shopping mall, the galleria owes to its prominent neighbour much more than a throng of customers it was hoping for.&nbsp; In other words, the cathedral did affect and even shape the galleria but in a much less predictable and more subtle (and even mysterious) way.​The galleria has haute couture, jewelry, paintings, rare books and many similar things - as well as expensive restaurants and hotels - on its collective offer but so do many other malls and individual stores where people come for no other reason but&nbsp; to buy whatever is sold there. However, there is at least one other reason to visit the "king's palace" - namely, to feast the eyes on its frescos and stained glass windows, multicoloured floor mosaic and golden pilasters, all that enhanced by perfect geometric shapes. Churches and cathedrals are also known as "temples of God" - building on that metaphor, one could say that the great cathedral shared with the neighbouring galleria its temple status, thus turning a mundane structure into a temple devoted to the god of beauty and perfection (if only there were one such in the Greek mythology). Equally remarkable, its creators managed to turn a famous Biblical story on its head by inviting merchants to the temple rather than chasing them from it!

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"King's Palace"

It takes several days and multiple experiences to discern <a href="/blog/venice">Venice's</a> personality but all one needs to divine that of Milan is to take one long look at the city cathedral.In my highly subjective opinion, Gothic cathedrals - alongside Mozart's music - are the most convincing proof of human collective genius (those who chose Beethoven's "Ode to Joy" for the Time Capsule sent into outer space in 1977 to represent humanity before alien civilizations, would undoubtedly have their own say in that matter). I saw many of them, and most are rather impressive while some - like the Cathedral of Cologne - are outright remarkable. Yet, when I saw the "Milano Duomo" for the first time, I felt speechless - quite literally, because I immediately ran out of superlatives. That black golden wonder reminded me of the Original Seven. In that particular moment, I was seriously considering a possibility of believing in God because who else would possibly manage to illustrate the concept of "harmony" in its entirety, and with such precision?!The Cathedral is the ultimate "illusions seller" (it's easy to come close to it, even to touch its walls, but its heart and soul, the spires, are high in the sky, completely out of reach) - and so is the city of Milan. A strikingly beautiful and somewhat remote, charming and smart, and endlessly ambitious movie star (just like the Cathedral, she reaches for the sky and believes it to be her only limit), she pretends to be one of her elusive characters - and successfully convinces even those who know her personally!To be fair, I have to mention that the interior of the Cathedral is every bit as solemn, beautiful and harmonious as one would expect such a place to be - it's just that it pales before the spired phenomenon like even an outstanding Talent pales before a pure Genius…

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Milano Duomo

Many wonders are quite conspicuous, while some others are located away from beaten tracks, and they have to be looked for and sought after. However, almost all such wonders are easy to recognize when they are in front of you - unlike very few special wonders that are never found in front of you because they are literally everywhere at the same time. One such wonder is language.​English is a gender-neutral language as almost everything that doesn't breathe is referred to as "it". (Purists even believe that the same pronoun should be applied to animals but they would be wise never to mention that opinion in front of pet-owners - just like it's highly advisable never to tell a sailor that his ship is a mere "it"). As a result, our language remains quite objective, scientific and, one might even say, politically correct but the situation with many other major languages is strikingly different. &nbsp;For example, our "city" turns into an Italian "citta" - a very similarly sounding word but one that belongs to the female gender, and that one fact completely changes the way those "citta"s perceive themselves and are viewed by the rest of the world. It defies explanation and borders on mysticism but very soon upon arrival at an Italian city, one begins to discern its distinct personal characteristics and behavioral patterns.​The heroine of the last several entries, <a href="/blog/venice">Venice</a>, is a high-ranking aristocrat (countess or duchess) acutely aware of her birthright and all the privileges associated with it. She is haughty and very demanding when it comes to her social circle, and her communication with everybody is very proper. The aura of authority she gives off is so strong that, no matter how wealthy or successful those around her are, only precious few dare consider themselves as her equals…

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Saluti da Venezia

<a href="/blog/venice">Venice's</a> "to see and admire" list comprising floating palaces, historic bridges and the city's jewel in the crown, the St.Mark's Square with its legendary/omnipresent pigeons overfed by thousands of tourists on a daily basis, is quite big and impressive. A similar "to experience" list is significantly smaller but equally stunning and, in some way, even more unique. It stars, above all, gondolas and Murano glass factory.​While aquataxies are mere means of transportation, long, sharp-nosed, multi-coloured, velvet-lined gondolas are, first and foremost, a cultural phenomenon providing its passengers with an opportunity of total immersion in the city's spirit and traditions. Arguably, Venice's most famous tradition is its collective gondolier - a Jack (or should I say, Giacomo) of all trades juggling the hats of a boatman, a tour guide, a street entertainer and a singer. It is to that latter capacity that the world of music owes one of its most romantic and distinctive song genres - barcarolle (literally translated as "boatman song"). Barcarolles may be also considered that ace up Venice's imaginary sleeve that sets its gondolas apart from Christchurch punts and Vienna Fiakers (stylish horse-drawn carriages used mostly by nobles to move around several centuries ago)&nbsp;As for Venice's second superstar, if the Murano glass factory were allowed to share only one fact to establish its reputation, it would probably mention that mirrors it had produced since times immemorial used to cost more than Raphael's paintings of the same size! Add that quality and reputation to a number of marketing tricks the factory has been using for quite a while, and it's not really surprising that the island of Murano gradually turned into something like a pilgrimage site. Right in front of numerous guests, local glassblowers handle fire in a way any fakir would be proud of - and very few fakirs could turn a shapeless, colourless mass of sand, mixed with soda ash and limestone, into a cute green bell dotted with golden and silvery marks. Then such a bell, quite literally hot off the blowpipe, is being delivered to the factory souvenir shop conveniently located right on the other side of the production area exit door... I dared myself not to buy a pair of those bells - and lost the challenge!

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Murano Glass Factory

Building a city on next to no land available is quite a challenge but Venetians must have been inspired by a Scandinavian proverb: "The north wind made the Vikings!". <a href="/blog/venice">Venice</a> reinvented and reimagined itself as a living organism, its circulatory system running through the main canals, its vitals hidden in the extremely narrow back lanes (most structures were built literally next to each other because every bit of land had to be accounted for and taken advantage of), its lungs resting on some of the most picturesque islands (such as Burano, Murano and Torcello). Venice's living heart is beating on St. Mark square that, among many other attractions, turned the city into a tourist sanctuary, and tourists from all over the world - into Venice's lifeblood.&nbsp;Venice is full of vitality and...paradoxes, and the most obvious paradox is that a near landless city has become renowned for its architecture (of all things!). While St. Mark Cathedral, located on its namesake square, is quite famous and impressive, it's the Doge's Palace that has through centuries remained one of the most &nbsp;riveting landmarks in Italy, if not the whole Europe. So much so that it became synonymous with a unique architectural style named after the city itself - Venetian Gothic. It would take an expert to talk about pointed arches, light buttresses and similar professional characteristics of the style. A mere layman, I have to restrict myself to mentioning the obtained from local quarries pink and white marble that somehow renders the building a sense of unrivalled elegance and airiness, almost playfulness - and that's another paradox because the rule of Doges was anything but playful. Elected representatives (formally, Venice was a republic), they usually ruled with a rod of iron, and many a citizen, nobles included, ended their life in an underground cell or on the chopping block. That brings me to another twist in the tale leading to yet another Venetian feature (this time, an easily anticipated one) - namely, bridges. There are hundreds of them in the city - some being real masterpieces - but the most ominous one is the so-called Bridge of Sighs leading from the interrogation room in the Doge's Palace to a prison cell... &nbsp;​The discrepancy between buildings' appearance and their essence isn't limited to the Doge's Palace. Many former churches, scattered along the Grand Canal, look like true seats of medieval Inquisition - painted brown and copper, they are heavyset and gloomy, their windows narrow enough to serve as firing ports. Come inside, and there are museums and art galleries featuring some of the most famous paintings in the world! The last but not least item on the "deceptive appearances" menu is called "private palaces". While hugging the waterfront, they are so close to the Grand Canal that they create a perfect illusion of floating above its waters...&nbsp;

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Doge's Palace

<a href="/blog/amsterdam">Amsterdam's</a> transformation into what can be called a "natural city" had happened by choice prompted by commercial considerations. As a result, the Dutch capital managed to keep the best of both worlds: its waterways network was added to the already existing regular urban structure - such as streets, squares, transportation means... As opposed, Venice had no such luck - or luxury. It had no choice of how much land should be allocated to which element, no say in the matter whatsoever. Created on - or out of - 118 small islands, it had to throw itself on the mercy of the god of the sea, Neptune. &nbsp;I have to clarify that, in many cases, "small" islands actually mean "tiny". That is, small enough to be easily traversed on foot in 10-15 minutes. Unsurprisingly, such islands have space for but one-two streets &nbsp;- and often enough, even those might be better called "paths". While a handful of houses can usually be found on those paths, there is hardly a store, a bank, a post-office or a hospital among them. For such and similar services, one would have to travel to a bigger, more central island. Just like elsewhere, traveling implies buses, taxis, private vehicles and the like - only in Venice all that moves exclusively over water. In other words, the first four letters for each and every transport unit there are exactly the same "AQUA".​Other than the utter preponderance of water, using Venetian transport isn't particularly difficult or confusing. Every pier has a copy of the aquabus' current schedule, and boats-buses seem to pretty punctual. Aquataxies take the same 10-15 minutes to arrive - a splash outside your window will inform you that your captain-driver is waiting for you. The above-mentioned private vehicles are usually parked right under the house - quite literally, because most houses have stairs leading straight into the water where the family boat is moored . To be fair to Venetians, many of them do have actual cars necessary to travel around the country and abroad - it's just that they have to keep them where there are also streets and roads! Namely, in Mestre, the mainland suburb of Venice. I should also mention that the waterfront is not only the busiest part of the city but also the neatest one - maybe, because it's the only actual "street" in Venice proper. The rest are essentially back lanes - and, away from the waterfront, it's rather easy to go astray and even get lost...​All the above could be mistaken for a description of a routine fishing village - except for Venice being one of the most striking and original - as well as aspiring and somewhat conceited - cities in the world.

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Venice

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