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Christ Von Escher

Author: Edward Porper

Reading time: 3 min read
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Mathematically speaking, two multiplied by two must equal four, and 10 or 100 is more than 1. However, when it comes to human emotions and experiences - travels included - it's not always the case.

With only so much time and oh-so-much to see, combining experiences occasionally proves to be an efficient solution. Braga, the 4th largest city in Portugal populated by about 120,000 people, provides a good example of such efficiency: important enough to justify a visit, it errs on the side of religion (the city is known as the religious capital of Portugal), which might prompt secular visitors to stay shorter rather than longer. As Braga is located mere 25 kilometers away from Guimaraes, covering both on the same day would also mean having the best of both worlds - but for the amount of time the quaint smaller town requires to be fully enjoyed and appreciated. Realistically, that leaves enough time to do justice to only one major attraction in Braga. Fortunately, there is an attraction there that is literally head and shoulders above the others.

Bom Jesus do Monte/Good Christ of the Mountain (on the cover picture) isn't a building like a church or a cathedral but rather an agglomeration. It's officially defined as a "sanctuary" - a part of an about 500-year-old project started at the Council of Trent to counter the Protestant Reformation. The Church decided to create a number of "sacri monti"/sacred mountains to promote its own version of Christianity, and Bom Jesus became the project's primary trailblazer. There are many online sources analyzing its religious, historical, architectural and cultural significance but what turns this ensemble of structures into a true wonder is, arguably, a raw impression it is bound to make on any first-time viewer. The mountain slope looks like it might be one of Escher's optical illusions painted for the sake of artistic enjoyment rather than any practical purpose - and yet, every aspect of that multifaceted creation is either quite practical or, at least, symbolic like the below sculpture

DSCF9238.JPGA perfect balance struck between culture (art) and nature is a major contributor to the ambiance of the place. Magnificent examples of baroque churches, 

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classical palaces turned into hotels,

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and stylish but sturdy rococo arbors 

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rub wings with sun-kissed ponds 

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and lush gardens skillfully incorporated into the scenery while mostly preserving eye-pleasing symmetry

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The bottom of the stairs still being quite close to the top of the mountain turns it into a vista that offers stunning views over Braga, thus helping just one Braga attraction to provide an experience as complete as any one might find elsewhere in the country and beyond.

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